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NikeNIKE

Free Form Running Shoe Design

Tobie Hatfield of Nike's Innovation Kitchen talks Free, barefoot running, and experimenting

The Nike Free line isn't just about barefoot running, but freeing the foot to return to its natural movement.

By Striperpedia staff

Losing one's way is bad enough in the running world; be it on a trail, or down an unfamiliar street. But losing the way in the manufacture of world-renown running shoes can prove fatal in the business world.

Such was the challenge that faced Tobie Hatfield and his designers in the Innovation Kitchen at Nike's World Headquarters in Beaverton, Ore. And it's that dramatic yank back to reality that got Hatfield and company thinking about the newest wave in shoe design, that of minimalism, or natural foot movement.

Hatfield shed sweat and blood — literally, to hear him tell of the X-Acto knives that slipped and slashed open his leg in the design studio — as the point man in developing the Nike Free continuum. This scale measures (from 0.0 to 10.0) how close to barefoot a shoe feels. Zero represents a pure barefoot feel, while 10 is a more traditional running shoe.

Hatfield, whose older brother Tinker Hatfield has designed most of the Air Jordans, joined Nike in 1990. Hatfield the younger recently spoke with Striperpedia about the Nike Free line of running shoes, about the scale that guides runners toward natural foot movement, and about the dangers of designing with sharp objects.

Striperpedia: How did the Nike Free continuum come about?

Tobie Hatfield: In the early 2000's, we were observing coaches and athletes running and training barefoot on grass. Upon this observation and claims that this training method helped reduce injuries, we began to study the potential performance benefits of training barefoot.

We were looking at close-to-barefoot first, and our initial prototypes mimicked barefoot motion. The first prototypes, which no one's seen unless they were here, were very minimal, but we thought, "Most people have never trained barefoot before, and it wouldn't be best for them to go all the way to zero. It's like a strength training program; you wouldn't go into the gym for the first time in years and bench press your max. You need to build strength over time. We have a responsibility to do this the right way and let the runner progress naturally into barefoot training.",

On the 0-10 Free continuum, Zero is barefoot and 10 is a more traditional running shoe, so we sought to start in the middle of the scale at a 5.

The numbering was more internal to start with, but consumers gravitated toward the scale. There will be some people who will start at a 5 and stay at a 5. Then there'll be others who will progress really quickly to a 3.0 and, if we go further, to close to barefoot.

Again, athletes train in a progressive manner. They don't go in the first day and lift their heaviest weight. If they're training for a marathon, they don't do 26.2 miles their first day; they progress to that.

Abebe Bikila brought barefoot running into international consciousness when he won gold at the Rome Olympiad in 1960. Why is the movement toward barefoot-minimalism just coming about now?

Hatfield: We listened to our athletes and our coaches. They said we were starting to lose our way with the shoes — not just Nike but the industry. We'd forgotten about the foot. We need to celebrate the foot. Leonardo da Vinci said the foot was a masterpiece of engineering and a work of art. He didn't say that about the brain or the heart; he said that about the foot. Yet we almost forget about it.

When we observed coaches and athletes, including former USC Coach Vin Lananna, running and training barefoot, they were running on the pristine grass of Stanford's golf course, which most people don?t have access to. That's one of the great things about shoes ? they protect you from the elements and from stepping on debris like glass. So we said, "Let's retain that, but only that, and let the foot do everything else.",

That's how it started in 2000-2001. Barefoot running is not a new idea. The new idea is replicating barefoot training in a shod condition.

What has been the greatest challenge to developing this continuum?

Hatfield: We did a 5.0 to start with and immediately thought, "Let's go down this continuum and do a 4.0.", We knew how to measure that; we could put a number to any shoe you gave us by measuring the different angles of the joints, the metatarsals, pressure points. The problem was, when you went from 5 to 4, could the user perceive the difference? We measured; it was a 4, but perception-wise, would people think, "I don't know if this is much freer than a 5",? We needed to stay on the odd number system and go from a 5 to a 3. Sure enough, after that we went to a 7.

One other challenge has been communication of the numbering system/continuum itself; just getting it started. Once you start talking to people about it, then not only do they get it, but they expect it. That's what we saw when we took the numbers off.

Stripping away materials must be a new approach for shoe designers. What has been an "aha" moment of discovery for Nike's designers in developing the Free line?

Hatfield: Several! One that comes to mind immediately — once we did a more natural-motion type last — had more contours in the top of the footbed. So the foot fits in there more like a puzzle piece because you have the heel, arch and a transverse arch. Those aren't flat. So we asked, "What do we have to do to counter that movement?",

Well, then you need a heel counter, then extra overlays. That's where the overbuilding process starts to happen. So if you have a surface that mirrors the bottom of the foot better, then your foot won?t move around on the footbed so much. Maybe you won?t need so much on the upper.

I said, "Maybe we won't need a counter.", Then, to test that theory, we put the counter back in. They hated it. We don't need them, and we put them there in the first place. If you don't have that first reason, you don't need that second reason.

We knew we'd have to release tension in the midsole and outsole to allow it to flex better and the foot to flex better and not the shoe. If you don't have as much movement on the footbed you don't need as much on the upper. With a deep heel bed, the foot doesn't want to move around as much as it wanted to when it was a flat surface. Round on flat: not so good. Round seated into the footbed: better.

Nike currently produces a Free 3.0 and 7.0; what will it take to develop a 2.0 or 1.0? How close can you see getting to a 0.0?

Hatfield: Initial prototypes were very close to barefoot. We know how to do that. So we're real close. We need more research on the benefits of being down at a 1.0. We don't want to design and build and sell anything to the consumers unless we can say there's a good reason.

For example, we know most of our testing has been done on grass. But we know most people just aren't going to do that. They're going to be running on pavement. Having a 1.0, knowing it's going to be out there — if we can honestly do our research and can say, "You gain, for example, 20% in strength, 10% flexibility, balance 20%,", then great! We'll do it. But in order to get it to a successful level, we need to say, ?Here's our research to prove it.?

You've described Nike's Free line as NOT part of the barefoot/minimalist movement but rather a progression toward natural movement. Can you elaborate on the difference?

Hatfield: I really feel that anybody can make a real minimal shoe by lowering the profile and using less material or thinner materials under the foot. People can do that in their garage or professionally.

What we've found, in order to do this correctly, is that we need to replicate natural, bare motion. That's why we have the siping pattern on the outsole — to simulate barefoot movement and give runners a fuller range of motion. I've gone through lot of blood — literally, with X-Acto knives slipping and going into my thigh. We knew we wanted to be accurate because the foot was asking for that.

We began by looking at the foot itself. We can't design anything until we understand the foot. You can deconstruct anything and say, "Now just go wear it.", Is that truly going to work for the foot? A result of that appears to be that shoes are becoming more minimal/deconstructed.

The barefoot enthusiasts might say, "That isn't barefoot!", Well, they're right ? it's halfway. This is a safer, better way to adapt your foot to barefoot training.

You've suggested that the Frees be used in conjunction with other training shoes. But if the Frees are intended to promote a midfoot/forefoot footstrike, won't moving back to traditional trainers force runners to change their gait back to a heelstrike?

Hatfield: It depends how far down the continuum you go. We still have an 8mm offset, a certain amount of heelstrike. Even in 3.0, it's a little flatter. The main objective of the 3.0 is, when you go back to your Skylon or Pegasus, that it makes your experience that much better. Don?t forget, the Pegasus or Skylon is getting more flexible as well.

We view Nike Free as a training tool. Are some going to use it as an everyday training shoe? Yes, and that's great for some. Others will use the shoe as a training tool, and that's how we see it. It's very personal. For me, maybe I'll use Free once or twice a week, then I'll go back into my other shoe.

That's what I love about Nike Free. We didn't scare people away with the 5.0. There was a certain measure of heel lift. Some people may stop there, and some people may progress. That's the key — we're providing athletes with a valuable training tool.

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    $59.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Magista Onda TF - Boys' Grade School - White / Orange
    Nike Magista Onda TF - Boys' Grade School

    $54.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Magista Onda TF - Boys' Preschool - White / Black
    Nike Magista Onda TF - Boys' Preschool

    $54.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Pro Classic Bra - Women's - Light Blue / Light Green
    Nike Pro Classic Bra - Women's

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $34.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Hypervenom Phelon TF - Boys' Grade School - White / Orange
    Nike Hypervenom Phelon TF - Boys' Grade School

    $54.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Elastico Superfly IC - Men's - Black / Light Blue
    Nike Elastico Superfly IC - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    $149.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Free 5.0 2014 - Men's - Light Blue / Orange
    Nike Free 5.0 2014 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.53

    $99.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Zoom Fly 2 - Men's - Grey / Light Blue
    Nike Zoom Fly 2 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Zoom Fly 2 - Men's - Black / White
    Nike Zoom Fly 2 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Free 5.0 TR Fit 5 - Women's - Pink / White
    Nike Free 5.0 TR Fit 5 - Women's

    Width - B - Medium
    Print

    $109.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Soldier VIII - Boys' Toddler -  Lebron James - Black / Dark Green
    Nike Soldier VIII - Boys' Toddler

    James, Lebron

    $49.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Preschool -  Lebron James - Orange / Light Green
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Preschool

    James, Lebron
    6 Meridians

    Product Rating of 4.25

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Preschool -  Lebron James - Black / Red
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Preschool

    James, Lebron
    DATA

    Product Rating of 4.25

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Zoom Fly 2 - Women's - Black / White
    Nike Zoom Fly 2 - Women's

    Width - B - Medium

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Zoom Speed TR 2 - Men's - White / Black
    Nike Zoom Speed TR 2 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.43

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Zoom Rival S 7 - Men's - Black / Light Blue
    Nike Zoom Rival S 7 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.35

    $64.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Max Plus - Boys' Grade School - Black / Light Green
    Nike Air Max Plus - Boys' Grade School

    $124.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike College Platoon T-Shirt - Men's - Kentucky Wildcats - White / Blue
    Nike College Platoon T-Shirt - Men's

    Kentucky Wildcats

    $25.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Speedlax 4 - Men's - Silver / Black
    Nike Speedlax 4 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 3.00

    $64.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD 7 - Boys' Grade School - Red / White
    Nike KD 7 - Boys' Grade School

    Product Rating of 4.70

    $114.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Men's -  Lebron James - Green / Red
    Nike Lebron 12 - Men's

    James, Lebron
    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.61

    $219.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Grade School - Dark Green / Red
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Grade School

    Product Rating of 4.59

    $159.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Max 2015 Premium - Women's - Grey / Grey
    Nike Air Max 2015 Premium - Women's

    Width - B - Medium

    $224.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD 7 - Men's -  Kevin Durant - Orange / White
    Nike KD 7 - Men's

    Durant, Kevin
    Width - D - Medium
    Limit 1 per customer

    Product Rating of 4.56

    $169.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Max 2015 Premium - Men's - Grey / Black
    Nike Air Max 2015 Premium - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.33

    $224.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD 7 - Boys' Infant -  Kevin Durant - Red / Purple
    Nike KD 7 - Boys' Infant

    Durant, Kevin
    Raptors

    $49.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Pro Classic Bra - Women's - Grey / Black
    Nike Pro Classic Bra - Women's

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $34.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Benassi Solarsoft Slide 2 - Men's - White / Pink
    Nike Benassi Solarsoft Slide 2 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    $34.99
    Now $29.99

  • Nike KD Xmas Cap - Men's - Orange / White
    Nike KD Xmas Cap - Men's

    $34.99
    Now $29.99

  • Nike Tech Fleece Crew - Women's - Grey / Black
    Nike Tech Fleece Crew - Women's

    $119.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Tech Fleece Bomber - Women's - Black / Grey
    Nike Tech Fleece Bomber - Women's

    $149.99
    Now $129.99

  • Nike Tech Fleece Bomber - Women's - Grey / Black
    Nike Tech Fleece Bomber - Women's

    $149.99
    Now $129.99

  • Nike Air Force 1 Low - Men's - Light Green / Black
    Nike Air Force 1 Low - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.62

    $99.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Force 1 Low - Boys' Grade School - Light Green / Black
    Nike Air Force 1 Low - Boys' Grade School

    Product Rating of 4.70

    $74.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Toddler -  Lebron James - Black / Orange
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Toddler

    James, Lebron
    DATA

    Product Rating of 4.67

    $59.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike College Platoon T-Shirt - Men's - Kentucky Wildcats - Blue / White
    Nike College Platoon T-Shirt - Men's

    Kentucky Wildcats

    $25.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Force 1 Low - Men's - Red / White
    Nike Air Force 1 Low - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.62

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Zoom Javelin Elite 2 - Men's - Grey / Black
    Nike Zoom Javelin Elite 2 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.50

    $199.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Hypervenom Phatal FG - Men's - White / Orange
    Nike Hypervenom Phatal FG - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    $119.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD 7 - Boys' Preschool -  Kevin Durant - Red / Purple
    Nike KD 7 - Boys' Preschool

    Durant, Kevin
    Raptors

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $74.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Elite - Boys' Toddler - Grey / Orange
    Nike Elite - Boys' Toddler

    $44.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Tiempo Legacy Leather FG - Men's - White / Blue
    Nike Tiempo Legacy Leather FG - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.00

    $99.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Mercurial Veloce II FG - Men's - White / Pink
    Nike Mercurial Veloce II FG - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $129.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Magista Orden FG - Men's - White / Black
    Nike Magista Orden FG - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    $129.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lil Posite Pro - Boys' Infant - Light Green / Black
    Nike Lil Posite Pro - Boys' Infant

    Product Rating of 4.80

    $49.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Little Posite Pro - Boys' Grade School
    Nike Little Posite Pro - Boys' Grade School

    Product Rating of 4.74

    $179.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Infant -  Lebron James - Black / Pink
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Infant

    James, Lebron
    DATA

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $49.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Foamposite Pro - Men's - Light Green / Black
    Nike Air Foamposite Pro - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.72

    $229.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Griffey Max II - Men's - Grey / White
    Nike Air Griffey Max II - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.72

    $149.99
    Now $134.99

  • Nike Air Max 95 - Men's - Purple / Olive Green
    Nike Air Max 95 - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.67

    $159.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Mercurial Vapor X FG - Men's - White / Light Green
    Nike Mercurial Vapor X FG - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $199.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD 7 - Men's -  Kevin Durant - Silver / Grey
    Nike KD 7 - Men's

    Durant, Kevin
    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.56

    $149.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD 7 - Boys' Grade School -  Kevin Durant - Silver / Grey
    Nike KD 7 - Boys' Grade School

    Durant, Kevin

    Product Rating of 4.70

    $114.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Grade School -  Lebron James - Black / Orange
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Grade School

    James, Lebron
    DATA

    Product Rating of 4.59

    $159.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike SB Dri-Fit Icon Logo T-Shirt - Men's - White / Grey
    Nike SB Dri-Fit Icon Logo T-Shirt - Men's

    Product Rating of 5.00

    $31.99
    Now $21.99

  • Nike Air Max Thea - Women's - Grey / Purple
    Nike Air Max Thea - Women's

    Width - B - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.47

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Kobe IX High EXT - Men's -  Kobe Bryant - Red / Black
    Nike Kobe IX High EXT - Men's

    Bryant, Kobe
    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.67

    $274.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Command Force - Men's - Black / Light Blue
    Nike Air Command Force - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.88

    $199.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Lebron Data T-Shirt - Men's -  LeBron James - Black / Red
    Nike Lebron Data T-Shirt - Men's

    James, LeBron

    $34.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Dri-FIT Elite Tank - Women's - Aqua / Aqua
    Nike Dri-FIT Elite Tank - Women's

    $39.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike College Dri-Fit Logo Legend T-Shirt - Men's - Blue / White
    Nike College Dri-Fit Logo Legend T-Shirt - Men's

    Product Rating of 4.18

    $29.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Max Wright  - Men's - Black / Maroon
    Nike Air Max Wright - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.49

    $114.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Graphic T-Shirt - Men's - White / Red
    Nike Graphic T-Shirt - Men's

    Product Rating of 4.61

    $27.99
    Now $22.99

  • Nike Graphic Hoodie - Men's - Grey / Black
    Nike Graphic Hoodie - Men's

    Product Rating of 4.52

    $64.99
    Now $44.99

  • Nike Graphic T-Shirt - Men's - Black / Red
    Nike Graphic T-Shirt - Men's

    Product Rating of 4.61

    $27.99
    Now $22.99

  • Nike Air Force 1 Low - Men's - Tan / Brown
    Nike Air Force 1 Low - Men's

    Width - D - Medium

    Product Rating of 4.62

    $89.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Club Logo Full Zip Hoodie - Women's - Red / White
    Nike Club Logo Full Zip Hoodie - Women's

    Product Rating of 4.89

    $54.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Max 90 Sneaker Boot - Men's - Grey / Light Green
    Nike Air Max 90 Sneaker Boot - Men's

    Width - D - Medium
    Ice

    Product Rating of 4.77

    $159.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Hyperelite Chase Crew Socks - Men's - Black / Pink
    Nike Hyperelite Chase Crew Socks - Men's

    Product Rating of 3.00

    $19.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Air Force 1 Low - Boys' Toddler - Red / White
    Nike Air Force 1 Low - Boys' Toddler

    Product Rating of 4.70

    $44.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike KD Digital Ink Elite Crew Socks - Men's -  Kevin Durant - Red / White
    Nike KD Digital Ink Elite Crew Socks - Men's

    Durant, Kevin

    $23.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Kobe Xmas T-Shirt - Men's - Red / Red
    Nike Kobe Xmas T-Shirt - Men's

    $34.99
    Now $29.99

  • Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Toddler -  Lebron James - Orange / Light Green
    Nike Lebron 12 - Boys' Toddler

    James, Lebron
    6 Meridians

    Product Rating of 4.67

    $59.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike LeBron Xmas T-Shirt - Men's - Green / White
    Nike LeBron Xmas T-Shirt - Men's

    $34.99
    Now $22.99

  • Nike Soldier VIII - Boys' Toddler -  Lebron James - Grey / Light Blue
    Nike Soldier VIII - Boys' Toddler

    James, Lebron

    $49.99

    FREE Shipping
  • Nike Tech Fleece Pants - Women's - Black / Grey
    Nike Tech Fleece Pants - Women's

    Product Rating of 4.50

    $79.99
    Now $69.99

  • Nike KD Xmas T-Shirt - Men's - White / Orange
    Nike KD Xmas T-Shirt - Men's

    $34.99
    Now $29.99

 
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